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Fabrikator 3D Printer collection
Collection of Discussions from the Fabrikator Group at Facebook: Just few things to be taken care of while building it: 1. Tighten the brass nozzle to the black plastic part, and tighten the brass hex nut at the upper end of the head, otherwise the head will leak. 2. Lubricate the y-axis idler shaft with MoS2 grease or it will seize. Lubricate the linear bearings all around the thing and the Z-leadscrew with the MoS2 grease. 3. Make sure you wire the electronics cooling fan so that it runs always when the printer is powered, otherwise the voltage regulator on the Arduino board can fry. Wire it directly from the input connector of the RAMPS board. Upgrades well worth the money: ball bearing idlers on Y-axis, cooling fan for the J-head plastic part, 8825 stepper driver boards (you then need to double the steps/mm figures in the firmware), Buildtak sheet to the build glass. Do you have a link to the idlers for the Y axis that you mentioned? Mine prints great but I had to slow down the Y axis a little or the motor will skip occasionally during long, fast moves. I bought these. You will have to carve the bottom of the holder fork a bit because the flange is so deep, or print a new one. Link or Link----- I changed X and Y axis pololus to 8825 stepsticks. I did not recompile and reload the firmware, just patched the double steps / mm in from panel and saved the memory to EEPROM. Definitely worth every one of the 7 euros it cost to me. Printer noise is waaaay down and even the tone of it is nicer. Maybe there is even a very very small improvement in print quality. I just plugged them in withouth checking the max current, that has to be done just to be safe, or I may be in danger of damaging the stepper motors. - Simply using a plug-compatible stepper motor driver that is based on a more capable Texas Instruments 8825 chip. Needs a minor fix into firmware (ie. Marlin) to accommodate the new 1/32 step operating mode. Theoretically would produce twice the resolution on x and y axis (from 80 steps per millimeter to 160 steps per millimeter) but most of that is wasted by the mechanical accuracy of the mechanism. It however seems to produce just noticeably smoother curves, but in any case the noise changes in both volume and tone to much nicer, probably because it partially moves outside the range of human hearing, and partially gets translated to a less irritating frequency range. There is not much of sense in using them in Z or extruder, since neither of then is not limited by stepper accuracy. But if building a new printer, there is no reason not use them, as they are only marginally more expensive then the A4988 based stepper drivers. The 8825 has also better heat dissipation and higher max output current than A4988 based driver. Of those only the better heat dissipation is useful in Fabrikator as alredy the 4988 can exeed the current limits of the stepper motors in it. Tipps von Lazyzero: http://lazyzero.de/cnc/fabrikator/start Nach dem das dann alles funktioniert hatte, habe ich die ersten größeren Sachen gedruckt die deutlich über 2 Stunden Druckzeit gebraucht haben. Leider hat sich nach 1.5h immer das Filament oberhalb der J-Head verbogen. Der Grund liegt im verwendeten j-Head das ohne irgend welche Kühlung, weder aktiv mit Lüfter noch passiv mit Kühlrippen, hinter einer Abdeckung schön warm eingepackt ist. So steigt die Wärme mit der Zeit in den Teil auf, der eigentlich kühl bleiben sollte, damit das Filament gut geführt werden kann. Abhilfe hat hier das entfernen der Abdeckung und das provisorische Aufhängen der keinen Lüfters direkt vor dem J-Head gebracht. Mittlerweile hab ich eine angepasste Abdeckung gedruckt http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:844036 Änderungen im Überblick Was ich bis jetzt gemacht habe: * Z-Rate auf 3mm/sec gesetzt * Hotend zerlegt und sauber wieder zusammen gebaut. * Z und Extruder Treiberplatine neu eingestellt. Der Strom war zu tief eingestellt, so das Schritte verloren wurden. * Lüfter auf den Kalten teil des Extruders gerichtet. Sonst hab ich nach 1.5h immer einen Filamentstau, weil das Filament oberhalb des Extruders weich wird. Druckqualität Mit der Qualität der Ausdrucke in PLA bin ich sehr zufrieden. Was ich bis dahin an Drucken gesehen hatte war nicht so gut. Aber vielleicht hab ich immer nur schlechte Drucke in die Finger bekommen. Meine Settings Ich verwende hauptsächlich Cura zum Slicen. Seit neuestem muss man in JSON Dateien seinen Drucker in Cura konfigurieren. Leider ist das etwas aufwendiger als zuvor. Da hat es gereicht einen neuen Drucker hin zu zufügen und die Geometrie zu definieren. Meine Cura Konfigurationsdatei für den Fabrikator könnt ihr hier runter laden: http://lazyzero.de/_media/cnc/fabrikator/fabrikator.json.zip Auf dem Mac muss die Datei in das Cura Paket rein kopiert werden. Dazu mit der rechten Maustaste „Paketinhalt zeigen“ wählen und dann bis Cura/Contents/Resources/cura/resources/settings navigieren und die JSON Datei dort rein kopieren. Unter Windows und Linux gibt es vermutlich auch einen settings Ordner. Diskussion at rchouse.com http://www.rchouse.com/forums.aspx?forumid=208&threadid=300242 User Kintekobo: Being new to the world of 3D printing I had a lot to learn when it came to using my Fabrikator and I thought it might be useful to share some of the things that I discovered if it might help other newbies. So here , in no particular order, are some of the things I have learnt. Everyone is encouraged to contradict, modify or add their own info to its. Perhaps we can get a 'Tips and Hints' section going. Possibly the most important thing to do is to ensure that the bed is absolutely level. Forget about the 'business card' or sheet of paper and instead go to your nearest Halfords (a UK car accessories store) and buy a set of feeler guages. These are used mainly for setting the gap of spark plugs, but they are absolutely essential for leveling the bed. A cheap metric set is all you need. Set the upper Z sensor to about half way then perform an Auto Home. Check the distance between the tip of the nozzle and the glass bed using the feeler gauge. Adjust the top rear sensor so the gap is 0.5mm under the nozzle at the front left position. Now with the power turned off SLOWLY move the head to the rear right limit and using the screw adjustment set the gap under the nozzle to 0.5mm. Return the head to the front left position and check that the gap is still 0.5mm and if not adjust using the leveling screw. Repeat this until both front left and rear right both read 0.5mm. Slowly move the head to the front right position and adjust the height between the nozzle and the bed using the height adjustment screw to be 0.5mm. Then move the head to the rear left position and set the gap to 0.5mm. Return to the front right and confirm that the gap is still 0.5mm and if not adjust. Keep adjusting the front right and rear left gaps until they are both 0.5mm. Now here's the boring bit - return to step 2 and repeat! Keep repeating these steps until you have all four corners reading exactly 0.5mm every time you perform an Auto Home. This took me about 40 minutes but trust me the results justify the effort. Once the bed is level at all four corners the final gap should be adjusted using the upper 'Z' sensor adjustment. Carefully turn the rear adjustment wheel in very small increments performing an Auto Home each time and checking the head gap with the feeler gauges until the height at the home position is correct. What is the 'correct height'? Read on..... The next step is to set the nozzle height to its working distance. This is much more of a trial and error loop so be prepared to spend many hours and waste a fair bit of filament, but once again the end result will justify the time spent. Make or download a simple test object to print. I created a simple oblong "picture frame" 50mm by 40mm, 2mm thick and 1mm high. With the head still at 0.5mm, print the object and watch carefully how it is printed. After the first layer is laid down you should not see the filament being extruded (gap too wide) nor should you see the nozzle 'ploughing' through the previously laid down filament. A useful hint is to draw a line with a Sharpie on the brass wheel that feeds the filament so you can see when it is moving. This helps check that it is feeding correctly and retracting when the head moves over areas it doesn't want to lay filament. I am still experimenting to find the best method of preparing the bed for best adhesion. I have had mostly good results using "Pritt" sticks but I still get the occasional separation. I had very mixed results using PVA glue, and have yet to try hair spray or Kapton tape. Anyone out there got any tips to pass on here? What is the best brand of hair spray to use? User Joop1987: I'm not sure how Hobby King came out with 95 steps/mm for the extruder but this value will extrude too much filament. I used pronterface to adjust the correct steps and 83.7 is almost perfect. This changed helped me greatly. From: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,1600,95} To: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,1600,83.7} or do it through the control menu. I bet if you change your esteps/mm to 83.7, you can use 100% flow rate in PLA and ABS. Before I corrected the esteps, I was running 82% flow rate and always thought something was wrong. I used Pronterface to measure the the length. User Andreas2015: His Tipps: Link Sonstiges/Additional: * Do not plug in the usb lead while powered from the internal PSU Link * Dimension der Glasplatte/ Dimensions of the Printing Glass Plate: glass 175x175x2 * Druckbett vor dem Druck vorheizen / Heat up the printing bed before printing * Direct Airflow for the build plate: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1088351 * Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide: Link * E3D v6 (or clone) Clip for existing fan: Link * Fabrikator bed leveling knop: Link * Alternative Linearlagager / Alternative Linear bearings: Link * Newbie error - do no move anything, X, Y, or Z too fast by hand... it blows the Arduino. You can trust me on this!! * OctoPrint Raspberry Pi controller/host for network/webcam live status Link